I was in Dingle to hike and relax for seven days. Except for a short 2-mile trek along a beach the day before, I had not really done any serious hikes yet, so I wasn’t sure how well I would do. Would my training be enough? My wife didn’t think so. I had doubts.
Behind Dingle is tall hill called Ballysitteragh Hill. It is over 600 meters at the summit and it would be a great test for both my endurance and map reading. I suited up with all of my trusty gear, had a sandwich packed for lunch, and I headed up to conquer the summit. I estimated that the entire trip would be four to five hours.
Well, just outside of town, I got the opening trail wrong and after encountering frigid cold along the way, killer sheep, and a dense fog that would ruin the view, it became clear that my summit attempt would be dashed. Another day, Ballysitteragh Hill.
The temperature almost immediately increased once I descended a bit. Along the way, I had passed someone running in shorts and a long sleeve t-shirt (they will surely die from the exposure) as well as other hikers. But there was one hiker that stood out. His name was Gene Courtney.
Gene was dressed more appropriately for the elements. His boots looked well worn and they were not laced up. He asked me where I was headed. I told him that I was headed back after attempting a summit and he wondered which way I was going.
“I have another way we could go,” he said. “We would pass a famine graveyard along the way. Would you like that?”
My interest perked up and he graciously lead the way. I thought that was incredibly kind since he was headed in a completely different direction when we met. He just decided that he would alter his plans so that he could show me.
Gene was a member of a group called the Dingle Hillwalking Club. The Club takes hikers up hills and mountains throughout Dingle and in Gene’s case, recites stories, jokes, and poems. Best mountain guide ever, though I cannot vouch for the veracity of his tales.
Gene was a famous resident of Dingle town. He was the owner of Courtney’s Bakery. He insisted that the best doughnuts in the world could be found there. He was 80 years old and in fabulous shape. He said he had been running the bakery for 50 years.
Create your own stories when you meet people along the way on our Discover Ancient Ireland tour. Find out more here.
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